A finger on the pulse
PROVENANCE MATTERS
By Amador Toril / ICEX

Pulses, a basic of the Mediterranean diet since ancient times, are an integral element in Spain’s traditional culinary repertoire. Though consumption has declined since the 1970s, they are now showing signs of a revival. While they tend to be associated with hearty stews, pulses can be used in cooking in many different ways and are highly nutritious. Even so, all the sectors involved in their production recognize the need for a change of approach: pulse producers and pulse consumers must insist on quality.

We associate different parts of the world with particular foods. Valencia is immediately, and quite rightly, associated with rice. Indeed, the ubiquitous paella dominated foreigners' perception not just of Valencia's cuisine, but that of Spain as a whole until quite recently. Paella took on an iconic status: tourists loved it and, surprising though it may seem, the appeal is still there. Valencia does not, however, live by rice alone. The custom of el tapeo (tapas trawling) synthesizes a long culinary history with its way of dipping into various sources-from the sea to the garden to the mountains-and is still very much with us today. In this article we suggest an itinerary that takes in some of the bars and restaurants in the city.